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Tibet - Frequently Asked Questions.
Tibet is a highly popular Asian destination for people wanting to travel somewhere just that bit different. People expect it to be difficult to travel there and yes, getting into Tibet is difficult. The actual act of travelling there is probably one of the easiest aspects of journeying to Tibet, the biggest difficulty coming with the red tape, which is more likely to prove a hindrance than the altitude sickness or terrain.
Following is a list of some of the most commonly asked questions in the Usenet newsgroups and chat pages, along with a brief answer to each, which will hopefully clarify the situation for those completely confused with travelling to the 'Roof of the World'. [Legal Disclaimer]
How do I get to Tibet? What flights are there to Lhasa? [Route Map]
Are there any overland routes? Flight costs are a little high and I want to see a little of the country and not just go straight from A to B. [Route Map]
The information you give is all about Tibet, what about Nepal? What are the visa requirements there?
How much is it going to cost me? Which travel companies go there?
What about currency, weather, religion, etc.? Where can I get more information?
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1) So what is there in Tibet and why would I want to go? Is there anywhere you would suggest that you haven't covered in your website?
A good guide book is better than me in helping you decide this. But have a look at the rest of this website, particularly the Tibet sections, and make up your own mind. My own trip (briefly) covered:
Lhasa - Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Sera and Drepung Monasteries, Nunnery, Norbu Lingka and the Lhasa night market.
Kamba La and Karo La passes and Yam Drok Tso Lake on the way to Gyantse.
In Gyanste, I visited the Kumbum Stupa and monasteries, plus I spent some time in the old Tibetan part of the town, dominated by the fortress on the hill (ask around, as you might get the key to get inside).
Shigatse, for Tashilhunpo Monastery.
Overland to Kathmandu via Shegar, Tinggri, Karo La pass for a spectacular view of the Himalayas, Milarepa's Cave just before Nyalam, Zhang Mu, Kodari (get your Nepalese visa as you pass through if you haven't got one already), past Bhaktapur and finally Kathmandu.
Other areas not covered by this website (i.e. areas I didn't visit)include:
Ganden Monastery (outside Lhasa).
Tsedang and Yarlong Areas (travelling east from Gonggar Airport). Look out for the castle of Yumbu Lakang and Mindroling Monastery, the main older Red Hat Sect monastery (most Tibetans now follow the Yellow Hat Sect of which the Dalai Lama is part).
Nam Tso Lake, to the north west of Lhasa has become a trekking destination for some companies.
In Lhasa itself, if you want a break from the monasteries, there's the Moslem quarter to visit around the Great Mosque.
On the Friendship Highway to Nepal, there are side trips to Sakya Monastery (I was supposed to be visiting there, but the road got washed away) and Rongbuk / Everest Base Camp.
Mount Kailash, which I cover separately from the other questions listed below - 'click here'.
This is not an exhaustive list and more experienced travellers than myself could no doubt come up with many more worthwhile places to visit.
2) Why go to Tibet? Won't I just be filling the pockets of the Chinese? Shouldn't we boycott travel to Tibet (and to China)?
My own personal view is that to truly understand the situation, you must see it with your own eyes. I held no opinion on the Tibet issue before I went (and I went as a tourist with the intention of doing a bit of sightseeing), but various observations and events while I was there convinced me that all was not as the Chinese wanted. Had I taken the stand of many and not gone, I would never have understood what other people were talking about and what they were protesting against.
[Note I am not trying to say here, "Go to Tibet, otherwise you won't understand" - that's impractical and most people do not have that kind of money. All I am trying to say is before you form an opinion or take a stance on any issue, not just Tibet, is to fully understand what is going on and try to look at an issue from all perspectives. Read my article 'A True Story' for more.]
As regards putting money in the wrong pockets, this can be avoided by spending in Tibetan shops and businesses while there. Learning a few phrases of Tibetan will normally help here (any decent guide book will have a few in). If the shop owner is Chinese, in the vast majority of cases, he or she won't have a clue what you're on about. The Chinese tend not to bother learning Tibetan. Also, I was under the impression that the Tibetans (at least the monks) are a lot keener to learn foreign languages, especially English.
3) What do I need in the way of visas and permits to get into Tibet? I don't really want to be part of a group, individual travel is my thing.
It's not that easy. Your passport (from memory) needs to have at least six months left on it, plus you'll need a Chinese visa and a permit. A visa allowing individual travel elsewhere in China does NOT allow travel in Tibet without an additional Alien's Travel Permit.
The rules keep changing, but (to excuse the pun) as a rule of thumb, a group visa is required plus the Alien Travel Permit, at least to get to Lhasa. Once you're there, you can do your own thing in and around the Lhasa area.
To travel to the closed or more remote areas of Tibet, a further permit is needed in addition, these available through travel agents within Lhasa, plus the services of a tour guide. Details of which areas are considered closed and therefore need permits can be obtained from the Public Security Bureau (on Linkuo Bei Lu). Tour guides can be obtained in Lhasa, but this means that probably the easiest approach from a red tape point of view is to be part of a group tour travelling into Tibet. All this said, I have been tipped off that it might be easier (this is not definite) to get permits for more remote areas in Shigatse, where things are allegedly more easy going.
One month visas are usual, with 60 and 90 day visas available on request. Within Lhasa, the Public Security Bureau will issue four or five day extensions if your visa is about to run out, but this is only done to allow people to make arrangements to leave Tibet. Note also that the lifetime of a visa is only three months from the date of it's issue.
4) What about altitude
sickness?
The Tibetan plateau is nearly all at high altitude, and it
is strongly recommended that on reaching Lhasa, you give yourself at least four
days before travelling elsewhere in order to acclimatize. If
travelling to high altitude (any height above 8,000 feet or 2,500 metres - Lhasa
is at 3,660
m or 12,000 ft), beware of altitude sickness (symptoms include headaches,
tiredness, dizziness, nausea). The same applies to higher altitude
areas of Nepal - even the popular treks to Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna
circuit should incorporate rest days to allow gradual acclimatisation.
If symptoms occur, do not attempt to increase altitude further. Decrease altitude immediately and take it easy until symptoms disappear. Failure to heed this advice could have very serious consequences. If symptoms last longer than four days, seek medical attention. This is available in any of the main tourist hotels inside Tibet, plus medical clinics and hospitals in the main towns. This will mean that those flying into Lhasa have a considerable advantage over those taking an overland route, as medical attention is only a phone call away. For people travelling overland, medical facilities (check with hotels, police and Public Security Bureaus if you see them and you have an emergency) of any type can be few and far between in remote areas. If you are taking an overland route, please allow yourself to acclimatise.
Within Tibet the scope for descent to lower altitude is limited, therefore if major difficulties are experienced, seek medical attention immediately. Oxygen may be made available and in severe cases, doctors may advise transfer to lower altitude on the next available plane, this being to either Chengdu in China's Sichuan province or for foreigners (if a plane is available), to Kathmandu in Nepal.
In Nepal, there are few places where first aid is readily available, either for altitude sickness or anything else (at least outside Kathmandu). Also, moving someone in an emergency case to lower altitude or for treatment can be very expensive (emergencies can only be moved around by helicopter), so comprehensive travel insurance is also advised (and for Tibet is necessary).
A bit of common sense for the first few days at altitude should avoid any major problems, for example, do not rush around on arrival, take gentle exercise at most (i.e. walking) and do not drink alcohol. Most symptoms where experienced should disappear after two to four days.
See your doctor if you are in doubt whether you are fit to travel. In order to obtain travel insurance (as mentioned above, necessary to be able to travel to Tibet), you will have to undergo medical examination. Ask at this stage, explaining that you will be going to high altitude. Unless you have any previous history of heart, circulation or respiratory problems and are reasonably fit, you should be okay. That said, physical fitness isn't a reliable indicator of whether or not a person will suffer from altitude sickness, so even the athletes amongst you need to take account of it.
Altitude sickness can be avoided, and acclimatisation encouraged, by slow ascent. Symptoms are usually avoided by pausing for one day at 2,000 m (7,000 ft) and by ascending no more than 600 m (2,000 ft) per day above 2,000 m, though this may vary from person to person. If travelling to Tibet via Nepal, spend a few days in Kathmandu at 1,220 m (4,000 ft) before travelling on to Tibet. If going overland, spend a day or so at an intermediate height, as medical facilities are basic between Kodari / Zhang Mu on the Nepal - Tibet border and Shigatse, a full day's drive away. Those tempted to travel straight through should bear in mind that there are three passes of over 5,000 m (16,400 ft) in between. (Some of the information on altitude given here has been summarised from Microsoft Encarta.)
[If you have reached this page by clicking the link in the 'Altitude Sickness' section on either the 'Nepal' or 'Tibet' page, or 'Ladakh' on the Tibet Links page, click as appropriate if you wish to return to that page.]
5) How do I get to Tibet? What flights are there to Lhasa?
6) Are there any overland routes? Flight costs are a little high and I want to see a little of the country and not just go straight from A to B.
It is probably best to answer both these questions together with the help of the following map. The routes (air and overland) most often asked about are shown as follows. Click on the route marker (FL for flights, OL for overland) on the map or in the list following to access information on the appropriate route. For reference, I took the flight from Nepal into Tibet from Kathmandu to Lhasa and after four days in Lhasa took the 'Friendship Highway' route back to Kathmandu:
 |
| Routes into Tibet |
The routes shown on the map are as follows:
| Flights: | |
| FL1: | Flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. |
| FL2: | Flight from Chengdu (with transfer from Beijing or Bangkok) to Lhasa. |
| Extra: | Extra information on arrival in Lhasa. |
| Overland: | |
| OL1: | 'Friendship Highway' (Kathmandu to Lhasa). |
| OL2: | Train to Golmud, then bus to Lhasa. |
| OL3: | Chengdu to Lhasa. |
| OL4: | Kashgar via Ali and Kailash to Lhasa. |
| Other: | Routes asked about, but not really open to tourists. |
| Kailash: | Ah, but you forgot about Mount Kailash (question 7)? |
At the risk of repeating myself, it doesn't matter what route you take, 'Altitude Sickness' will be a problem. Problems are most likely to be encountered on the overland routes due to lack of medical facilities in remote areas. If you fly into Lhasa, you are never far away from medical treatment if you need it.
Flights:
Lhasa (Gonggar) Airport on the banks of the Tsang Po river is the only active airport in Tibet open to foreigners. The two main routes, shown on the following map, into Lhasa are:
FL1 - Kathmandu to Lhasa: Twice weekly to and from Kathmandu, the last I remember, the flights were early morning, Tuesday and Saturday. These flights stop during the winter, though promises to keep them going are occasionally made. It is best to assume that these winter flights do not occur. An added bonus is that these flights pass Everest, so people taking this route should have their cameras ready. [Map]
FL2 - Chengdu to Lhasa: From Chengdu in Sichuan province (twice daily), with connecting flights to Beijing, and other Chinese cities and also indirectly via Kunming from Bangkok in Thailand. Two flights a week originate in Beijing, stopping at Chengdu en route. [Map]
Once there, it's a long drive to Lhasa proper, taking one and a half hours and crossing the Tsang Po river first by bridge (don't get too alarmed if you think you're going the wrong way), with the appearance of the golden roofs of the Potala Palace in the distance telling you that you're nearly there. Looking at the mountainous terrain around the airport quickly shows why it is not closer, there's nowhere it can be built.
There's indication of a bus service to Lhasa from the airport, but as you are more than likely going to be with a group, then this bit of information may not be that much help.
Rumours also keep surfacing of flights direct from Hong Kong to Lhasa, but these have apparently kept failing to materialise. [Map]
Overland:
The routes most often asked about are as follows. Again, refer back to the map if you need to. PLEASE NOTE THAT I HAVE ONLY TRAVELLED THE KATHMANDU TO LHASA ROUTE (as the rest of this site indicates) FROM LHASA. This is the only information I am able to give first hand. The information on the other routes has been researched from various guide books and from the Internet (people who've read this before will noticed I've updated this, given burearacy on travel along the Golmud-Lhasa and Chengdu-Lhasa routes seems to have eased). I am only forwarding information on other routes to help others to assess their viability:
OL1 - 'Friendship Highway' (Kathmandu to Lhasa): The main overland route is between Kathmandu and Lhasa, the popular tourist route being via Zhang Mu, Tinggri (with a side excursion to Everest Base Camp and Rongbuk Monastery possible), Shegar (Xegar), Shigatse (Xigaze, with a side trip from here to Sakya Monastery), Gyantse, Yam Drok Tso Lake and then over the Tsang Po river to Lhasa. The road is mainly unpaved. If you miss out Gyantse and Yam Drok Tso (which are well worth visiting), then a modern paved road takes you directly along the Tsang Po Valley from Shigatse to Lhasa.
The Chinese insist on the necessary permits to travel in either direction along this route. If you don't have them, you'll be turned back sooner or later.
If you're coming from Kathmandu to the Chinese border, you will have to be part of a tour group (see my 'Links Page' for a list of travel companies - mainly UK based, but catering for non-UK based travellers). Each tour group obtains their permit on production of a group visa and the passports of all members of the group at the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.
If you turn up at the Chinese Embassy or the Chinese border at Zhang Mu with an individual Chinese visa or without the permit, your visa will be cancelled there and then. Again, the rules seem to keep changing, but Kodari and Zhang Mu are a long way from Kathmandu and turning up at the border with just a Chinese visa and hoping to arrange your own transport is probably not the best thing to do.
Be aware that if you do take this route in the Kathmandu - Lhasa direction, that on and after crossing the border, there is a rapid increase in altitude which can be uncomfortable and even dangerous (see my notes on 'Altitude Sickness'), as you go from a few hundred metres at Kodari to over 2,000 metres in Zhang Mu, 3,000 metres in nearby Nyalam and up to over 5,000 metres at the top of the Lalung Le pass following. Many have found it easier to fly into Lhasa first, acclimatise and then travel across Tibet towards Kathmandu. [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
OL2 - Rail to Golmud, then bus to Lhasa: You can buy a train ticket in Beijing that will take you to Golmud in Qinghi province and from there take the bus via Amdo to Lhasa. Alternatively, you could hitch a lift in a truck (fare negotiable) or even hire a jeep to take you part or all of the way. The jeep option is definitely the more expensive, but nor do you have to sit in the back exposed to the weather, which can be quite cold at high altitude.
This seems to be the preferred route for individual travellers as far as the Chinese are concerned (and probably the most hassle-free for travellers), but it is still advisable to ask about permits. You could try the Public Security Bureau (go there first) or the police for the necessary permits at Golmud before you leave, however, there's no guarantee you'll get them (may be a good idea to try to get everything sorted permit-wise before you go). If you do get stopped without a permit, you may get away with a fine and the cost of a permit.
This road is paved along it's entire length, but even so, allow a couple of days for the journey.
If you do have to stay at Golmud for more than one day, there doesn't appear to be that much to do. From a travel point of view, it's the nearest rail head to Lhasa (also the route for the new railway being built to Lhasa that you may have read about elsewhere) and also the place to arrange onward transport. If anyone knows of something to do in the Golmud area, by all means tell me.
For group travel alternatives, check the overland itineries of Exodus and Imaginative Traveller and see what they have available. [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
OL3 - Bus from Chengdu to Lhasa: Another bus route which some individual travellers use, but a longer journey than the Golmud route. The attraction of this route is that it is possible, by travelling up the Yarlong Tsangpo river valley, to go via the Tsedang (open to visitors) and Sayme (need an extra permit obtainable in Tsedang or Lhasa, accessed by ferry up river from Tsedang) areas on the way to Lhasa. Probably possible in three days, but allow longer. Again, if you do get stopped, the cost of a fine and a permit may be all you have to pay - the Chinese seem have opened up this route also to travellers and it is unlikely you'll be turned back. Also check the overland itineries for Exodus, Explore and Imaginative Traveller if you don't mind travelling as part of a group.
As with the Golmud to Lhasa route, another option is to hitch a lift in a truck (again fare negotiable) or hire a jeep. Also as above, you could try the Public Security Bureau (visit first) or the police for permits before you leave Chengdu, but again, there's no guarantee you'll get them (as I said for the Golmud - Lhasa route, it may be a good idea to try to get everything sorted permit-wise before you go).
If you are stopping in Chengdu for a day or so, then it's a good place to shop for souvenirs and other stuff, as it has more than it's fair share of street markets. Apparently, the local Sichuan cuisine is famous for it's hot, spicy dishes, though not all food falls into this category. You won't have any trouble finding any local tea, due to the many tea houses.
If you are staying in Chengdu with the aim of visiting the Wulong Panda Reserve in western Sichuan, bear in mind special permission is needed. Talk to the local police or Public Security Bureau about how you might be able to visit. You might even get lucky and find out about a tour to the reserve. [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
OL4 - Kashgar to Lhasa via Ali and Kailash: Questions are also asked about the overland route from Kashgar via Ali and Kailash and the Tsang Po Valley. This is a very difficult route, where I have been informed in the past, that there is a high risk of being turned back if travelling from Kashgar to Tibet. Depending on which way you want to go, however, the permit situation is different. It is possible to obtain permits for the Lhasa to Kashgar journey (though whether en route you'll be asked for extra money or the permits will be honoured without a little unstated cash help is not fully certain - a case of 'officials' trying to get an extra bit of cash on the side may come into it), but not for the Kashgar to Lhasa journey for individual travel. Some tour groups have tackled this route in the Kashgar-Lhasa direction in the past (check the overland itineries of Exodus and Imaginative Traveller and see what they have available) and this may be a better option.
That said, I have received a number of accounts from people who have travelled this route individually, a route that has been taken up as a challenge by the more hardened travellers, out to beat both the harsh conditions and Chinese bureaucracy. I've added a little info on Kashgar while I'm about it.
Kashgar, or in Chinese Kashi, is reachable by road along the Karakorum Highway from either Pakistan (Islamabad, Gilgit, Hunza, Khunjerab Pass and the Chinese border, Tashkurgan / Taxkorgan, then Kashgar) or from the regional capital of Urumqi (pronounced 'U-ruem-chi'). There are also flights to and from Urumqi, with onward connections to eastern China. Kashgar is the second city of Xinjiang (also known as East Turkestan) after Urumqi.
If you are stopping at Kashgar for any length of time, it appears that it's as good a place as any to stay. Kashgar was a centre for the 'Great Game' during the 19th and early 20th centuries and is famous for it's central bazaar and Sunday market. Look out for the hats (very similar to those found in Uzbekistan) and carpets. If you're stuck there and have literally shopped till you drop, I understand the Id Kah mosque and the Tomb of Xiang Fei are both worth visits. Note that Kashgar is predominantly an Uygyr moslem town, the Uygyrs almost all converting from Buddhism I believe by the 13th to 14th centuries. There's also mention of Manichaeism and Christianity being practised at this time. The Uygyrs speak a Turkic language related to Uzbek and Turkish.
Xinjiang or East Turkestan appears to be another area (along with Tibet and Inner Mongolia) with significant portions of the population not wanting to be part of China (though the level of pro-independence activity seems to be less). I'll refrain from further discussion of the East Turkestan issue, as unlike Tibet, I know very little about it, so it does no good whatsoever someone knowing little or nothing about an issue sticking their nose in. All the best to a peaceful solution.
Kashgar is the last place where you guarantee decent supplies of food and equipment for the journey, so stock up while you can. Food is basic and repetitive en route, with Uygyr food (tukpa - mutton) on the Xinjiang or East Turkestan side and Tibetan food after that (tsampa and other barley based produce - see my main 'Tibet' page for more). Taking limited supplies of your own seems to be a good idea and chocolate, biscuits and fruit go down well with truck and jeep drivers. Taking some bottled water is also a good idea. The other thing is that it seems you need at least 3000 yuan for the journey, to pay for jeep hire, truck rides, permits and fines. A couple of hundred U.S. dollars may also come in handy.
There's a Public Security Bureau in Kashgar, where you could try to obtain the necessary permits before you start your trip, but it appears very unlikely you'll get them. If you do, you should in theory get a clear run up to at least Ali. If not, then the risk of you getting turned back is greater.
The first stage from Kashgar to Yecheng can be done by normal bus and is on reasonably good roads. On reaching Yecheng, there's a small hotel somewhere around costing about 50 yuan a night, but the actual location is a bit ambiguous, as it may be in Yecheng itself or at the Yecheng truck stop outside town (discussed next). One report seems to suggest it's still a good idea to stay there, or the truck drivers you'll find at the Yecheng truck stop refuse to take you onward.
At Yecheng, get a taxi to take you to the Ali road and you will be left at the truck stop. From there, it appears to be possible to take either a jeep at around 1000 yuan (prices may change) or hitch a lift on a truck heading in the direction of Ali. At the truck stop, it appears that the drivers separate themselves according to who they are, Chinese, Uygyr and Tibetan, so given on what you might hear from other travellers, decide for yourselves which is the best to go with.
Taking the 'truck' option may mean having to change trucks on the way, with Kukwa and Kudi seeming to be good places to do this. Also bear in mind that you may be travelling in the back and therefore in the open air - pay the extra money for a jeep if you want to avoid this. As for fares the truck drivers charge, these are negotiable - other travellers you meet or are able to talk to on line (i.e. Lonely Planet Thorn Tree) may give you better guidance to going rates, than for me to list an amount that invariably changes with time. Around about the 400 - 500 yuan seems to be the going rate at the time of writing.
The journey seems to take around five days to reach Ali, during which numerous stops will be made by the drivers for meals and sleep. Also bear in mind that road conditions won't be brilliant either, this adding to the journey time considerably. Both accommodation and meals come out at about 10 to 30 yuan. The driver may ask you to hide on reaching police road blocks, which could be advice well heeded.
On reaching Ali, there seem to be two approaches. One involves trying to avoid the Public Security Bureau and the police, and trying to hitch a lift onward into Tibet. The other is to go straight to the Public Security Bureau, where some of the accounts that have been forwarded to me indicate that you will have to pay a 300 yuan fine, plus 50 yuan for a permit for onward travel into Tibet. This is where I understood that in the past, people were turned back, but it seems the people here are a lot more friendly than I originally thought. That said, another report suggests that the police themselves will have no problems in turning you back. Oh, if you find yourself having to stay overnight here, be careful you don't walk into the brothel!
It is then a case of getting onward transport by truck or jeep via one of two routes. There are apparently two routes, a northern route via Tsochen (I don't know exactly where it goes, so I haven't marked it on the map - apparently there are more police road blocks this way) and the better known southern route via Kailash, going to Lhatse and linking up with the Kathmandu - Lhasa Friendship Highway.
There appears also to be a 'pilgrim bus' (apparently a truck) from Ali to Kailash, but information here is sketchy.
The police beyond here seem to be a bit stricter than the Public Security Bureau in Ali and it is here that obtaining the permit in Ali seems to be handy. One account seems to show fines of 500 yuan if you are caught without a permit.
On reaching Lhatse, it is possible to obtain a public bus through to Shigatse and Lhasa. Set aside three weeks at least for the entire journey.
The comments on 'Altitude Sickness' made in question 4) are just as relevant as ever here, as on crossing the mountains from Kashgar, elevations can reach 5,000 metres or more with no opportunity for a quick descent if effects become severe. If you have travelled from Pakistan via the Khunjerab Pass and the Karakorum mountains to reach Kashgar, you will probably be better acclimatised for the journey from Kashgar to Tibet.
It appears best to go during the summer months (June to September) as the road is very likely to become inaccessible in the winter, but even so, temperatures on the high passes can still fall to freezing. Warm weather clothes are strongly advised. Also, this time of year is height of the trekking season to the Kailash area, thus onward transport from Kailash to Lhatse, Shigatse and Lhasa will be easier to obtain.
Other bits of information seem to indicate there is a remote risk of robbery by the truck drivers doing this route and that it is also a good idea not to pay more than half the agreed fare up front before completion of the journey, so you're not pushed for more or dumped in the middle of nowhere. Also make sure you have sufficient time on your visa to complete the trip - you can get an extension in Ali, but only if you're visa has just two or three days left on it. Finally, all the best if you attempt this journey, but remember, there are no guarantees that you'll not be turned back.
Thanks to 'Martin' from New Zealand for most of the information on the Kashgar - Ali - Lhasa route. [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
Other routes: Routes from Ladakh (for Mount Kailash) and from India via Sikkim are open to Indian pilgrims. These are not normally open to tourists.
Another route that keeps being occasionally asked about online is from Myanmar (Burma) past Hkakobo Razi (the highest mountain in Myanmar and South East Asia at 5,881 metres, overlooking eastern Tibet) and joining up with the Chengdu - Lhasa route, however, the extreme north of Myanmar is not really an open region. Permits may get you into the area, but I don't know if you'll get across the border and I have no information that may be of help (despite having been to Myanmar). [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
There is the possibility of hitching a lift on any of these overland routes with a truck or other vehicle instead of taking the bus, buy if caught, this could get the driver of the truck in a lot of trouble. For this reason, it is probably not advisable.
7) Ah, but you forgot about Mount Kailash?
As I travelled along the more familiar route from Lhasa to Kathmandu, I don't have that great a knowledge about the Kailash (6,714 m or 22,027 ft above sea level) area. What I can put down here are the basics that you can get from any guide book; that it's one of the holiest sites in Hinduism (throne of Lord Shiva - the Ganges is supposed to come from one of Shiva's strands of long matted hair), Jainism (site of their first saint's liberation) and Bön (who see it as the soul of the country, ensuring perpetuity and protection for all the Tibetan people) as well as Buddhism (identified in Buddhist cosmology with the giant Mount Sumeru, the great peak at the centre of the world) . As well as the Ganges, three other major rivers also have their sources nearby, the Indus, Sutlej and the Tsang Po (Brahmaputra). As well as Kailash, there's two holy lakes, La'ngatso (Lake Rakas Tal) and Mapham Yamtso (Lake Manasarovar, apparently the highest body of fresh water in the world).
Pilgrims are allowed to cross from India and Nepal to get to it, as well as from other parts of Tibet and Buddhist pilgrims can be seen circumambulating it in a clockwise direction, as with the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Pilgrims aim to circumambulate the mountain three times, to absolve themselves of their lifehood sins.
The regulations are the same as for the rest of Tibet, in that you need a passport with at least six months on it, a Chinese group visa (meaning you'll need to be a member of a tour group) and the necessary permits. That's unless you've got through on the Kashgar - Ali - Lhasa route into Tibet, where the southern route from Ali to Lhatse takes you through the Kailash area, in which case you've avoided the group visa part.
The high season for what is essentially a trekking destination is June to September, with temperatures at their warmest. Warm weather clothing is still essential (temperatures can drop to freezing even during summer) and again 'Altitude Sickness' should not be ignored - the pilgrim route around Kailash reaches altitudes of over 19,000 metres.
As for getting to it, there are three ways I'm aware of that are open to foreign tourists, by trekking over the border from western Nepal (meaning group visas and permits are to be obtained from the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu - this route seems to effectively become closed, however, due to the problems with the Maoist groups in western Nepal) and the main road from Shigatse, which branches from the road to Nepal just west of Lhatse. The third way, already mentioned, is as a side trip travelling from Kashgar to Lhasa ('click here').
[Return to 'question' list.] [Map] [Altitude Sickness]
8) The information you give is all about Tibet. So what about Nepal? What are the visa requirements there?
You can get a visa either at a Nepalese embassy in your own country (local rates apply to get one) or quite a bit cheaper, get one as you enter Nepal. You can get three types of visa, 'Single Entry - Two Week' (seven days or less), 'Single Entry - One Month' (fourteen days or less) and 'Double Entry' (you may cross out of Nepal come back, but only once without renewing the visa. If you are planning onward travel to Tibet and then returning to Nepal, you will need the 'Double Entry Visa'. The prices of the visas are displayed at customs and passport control at Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport, which is where the visas can also be purchased.
Extensions may be available for up to 120 days and even 150 days in exceptional cases.
If you are entering Nepal from Tibet, you could get a visa from the Nepalese Consulate in Lhasa, but again, you can obtain one at the border which is much easier than hunting around Lhasa for the consulate building. Don't ask me where the consulate is, I have no idea.
9) How much is it going to cost me? Which travel companies go there?
I shall refrain from answering this one, because different people will have different priorities, except to say you should budget at least a couple of thousand pounds sterling (i.e. English). I suggest you shop around yourself, but you will need to budget not just for Tibet, but also getting to Bangkok, Beijing or Kathmandu for appropriate connections and the transport after that.
If you are prepared to go as part of a group, then UK Based companies I would check out include Exodus, Explore Worldwide, Travelbag Adventures (also referred to as The Adventure Company), Imaginative Traveller, Golden Hill Travel and Travelsphere (most of these cater also for non-UK based travellers). Their websites are listed on my 'Links Page'.
10) Is it safe to take pictures of the Dalai Lama to Tibet?
These pictures are very popular among monks and ordinary Tibetans, as was evident by the fact that on the Karo La pass and in some monasteries, the group I was with were near to mobbed for them, once it was realised we had them. That said, they have to be concealed very well in your luggage to hide them from the Chinese on entering Tibet. If you're caught by the Chinese in a routine search with photos of the Dalai Lama, their reaction is very unpredictable, varying from confiscation and full search of luggage for more photos, to being put on the next plane out of Lhasa. This is most likely if flying in from Kathmandu, where incidentally pictures of the Dalai Lama are widely available on sale (in postcard form and even in the form of car stickers?!).
Also, once in Tibet, be careful who you give them to, as some people asking for pictures may actually be in the employee of the Chinese authorities. If you have a Tibetan guide with you, the guide may well know who is genuine and who is not. This includes the monks and other people working in the monasteries.
11) What about currency, weather, religion, etc.? Where can I get more information?
On this website, more information can be found out about currency (Chinese Yuan), weather and religion (Lama Buddhism with some traditional Bön mixed in, plus some Sunni Islam in Lhasa itself) on the 'Tibet Photos' page, which also acts as a less specific background information page on Tibet itself. If you want information on Nepal, you may also try the 'Nepal Photos' page. Try also the 'Tibet Links' page for other sites dealing with Nepal and Tibet.
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Right, I hope that's of assistance to anyone reading this, but it has to be stated (legal disclaimer time) that I have put the information on this page together in good faith and I cannot accept any responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors. The big problem when compiling a page like this is that the situation in Tibet and the regulations governing travel there can change. Any unrest in Lhasa can result in foreigners being kicked out of Tibet or extra restrictions may suddenly appear overnight and also be withdrawn. The Chinese regard Tibet as a sensitive area and thus restrict movement of foreigners, whilst attempting to achieve an air of normality.
The best advice I can offer is to contact the Chinese Embassy in your own country. In Britain, they have their own website:
http://www.chinese-embassy.org.uk
...which I have to admit is an interesting read (with plenty articles on the website about Tibet).
All the Best,
Beefy.
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