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Tibetan Areas Not Visited by Me

  

Tibetan Buddhism in Britain

  

Travel Companies that go to the Himalayas




Tibet Aid and Relief

1) Tibetan Village Project

A non-profit organization with no religious or political affiliations, dedicated to alleviating poverty in Tibet by funding healthcare, education and other sustainable development projects, which enable Tibetans to live self-sufficient lives.

http://www.tibetanvillageproject.org

  

2) Tibetan's Children's Village (TCV) project

http://tcv.org.in/

The TCV project is about providing an education for Tibetan Children beyond Chinese influence.   Even after so long under Chinese rule, Tibetans send their children over the Himalayas (either over the high passes or amazingly with tourists and visitors to Tibet) to be educated by the TCV project.

See 'A True Story' for more information.

  



The Tibet Issue

A few links for those who want to know more.

   

1) Tibet Information Network

As near as you will get to a no-nonsense approach in information on Tibet. Highly informative, it includes a blow by blow account of Tibet's 20th Century History.

http://www.tibetinfo.net

   

2) The Government of Tibet in Exile

Not to my no-nonsense tastes (I'm not a religious person for starters ...), but covers many aspects of Tibet and Tibetan culture and is kept up to date on a regular basis.

http://www.tibet.com

   

3) Free Tibet Campaign

Campaign group for Tibet, plus latest news and links to other web sites on Tibet.   Full range of information, promoting active involvement in the group's activities.

http://www.freetibet.org

   

4) Voice of Tibet Radio

A news and information site with a difference.   This site provides Internet radio news broadcasts in both Tibetan and Chinese.   Realplayer needs to be installed to listen to them and you also need to understand spoken Tibetan and Chinese.   The website text is in English.

http://www.vot.org

   

5) The Tibet Game

In this game, you are in Tibet and have no karma, 1000 Chinese Renminbi (RMB) and three illegal photos of the Dalai Lama.   Your goal is to reach Nirvana by getting rid of all your possessions (money, photos, etc.) and building up your karma.   As you do good things, your karma will build.   A bit bonkers, but the use of a game type format makes it an entertaining way of introducing Tibet and the issue of Tibet to those who know little about the subject.   Use the 'Low Bandwidth' option if you're using a dial-up connection.

http://www.tibetgame.com

   

6) Tibetfocus (Deutsch / German)

A Tibet page in German, with news, politics and other information.

http://www.tibetfocus.com

   

7) Foreningen Boykot Kina

Danish language website with news and information about Tibet.   This website actually has the video footage mentioned by 'Buyhard for Tibet'.

http://www.kinaboykot.dk

(http://www.kinaboykot.dk/video.htm for the video footage)

   

8) Buyhard for Tibet

A website on Tibet that calls for a boycott of Chinese products and with links and stories on the issue of Tibet.

http://www.buyhard.fsnet.co.uk 

Alternatively take part in the:

Buyhard for Tibet Discussion Forum

   

9) Canada Tibet Committee

Tibet news and campaign site in both English and French.   Specifically aimed at Canada, there's also a list of contact addresses for people to talk to them and join in their activities.

http://www.tibet.ca

   

10) International Tibet Independence Movement

Site, which although is another supporting Tibetan self determination, has an interesting section in which the Chinese and Tibetan views of the issues are looked at side by side.

http://www.rangzen.com

  



The Chinese View

1) The Chinese Embassy in London

The website of the Chinese Embassy in London has a sizeable number of articles on it, stating the Chinese point of view on the Tibet issue.

http://www.chinese-embassy.org.uk

   



Tibet Links Pages

1) More Tibet Links

A comprehensive list of websites on the subject of Tibet.

http://www.lhaso.com/links.html

   

2) Tibetan Cultural Region Directory

If the above doesn't help, here's a further comprehensive links site, this time organised into subject specific categories.

http://www.kotan.org/tibet/directory/index.html

   



Tibet Travel Information

1) The Internet Travel Guide - Tibet

Highly informative and comprehensive guide on all aspects of travel relating to Tibet.

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/index.html

   

2) Lonely Planet - Destination Tibet

What the Lonely Planet guidebook people have to say online about Tibet.   Reasonable amount of Tibet information, though not as much as it's guidebook (see Further Reading).   The Lonely Planet website does have a basic discussion forum (called the 'Thorn Tree'), on which you can post messages to gain advice from other travellers.   There are other sections dealing with Nepal and Bhutan.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/dest/nea/tib.htm

   

3) Rough Guide

The website of the main competitor to Lonely Planet, it's website also has a small amount of information on Tibet in it's China section - this is what appears in it's printed guide (okay for a website, but not enough for a printed guide).   Nepal has it's own section.   Again, a basic discussion forum is available on which it is possible to get advice from other travellers.

http://travel.roughguides.com

   

4) Virtual Tourist

What is different about this site, is that most of the information on it has been put there by travellers and tourists and not by journalists and writers.   The quality of information can vary, though tends to be fairly good.   Another thing that differentiates this from say, the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide websites is that people can post up their photos from their travels.   Thus as well as getting information, you can actually see what various places look like.   There is a wealth of Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan information and photos, plus a little bit about Ladakh in Northern India also.   Again, there is a discussion forum available for posting for advice.

http://www.virtualtourist.com

    

5) Explore Photo

Travel information and photo site, concentrating on eastern Asia.   People can contribute their own stories and photographs, though not as freely as with Virtual Tourist.   I'll let their advert tell you what it's about.

Best of Asia at your fingertips. Get ideas. Get inspired. Everything you need to plan your trip. Plus daily Asia news digest, featured articles, travel and photo tips and more. China, Hong Kong, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, Nepal, India, Tibet, Bhutan, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar - http://www.explorephoto.com/tibet.htm

   



Nepal Links

Three web directories containing comprehensive lists of websites for Nepal, including hotels, tour and trekking companies, arts and crafts, and banks.   The second one also contains a fair selection of personal websites, (travelogues, photos, etc.).

    

1) Nepal.com

http://www.nepal.com

    

2) Travel Nepal

http://www.travel-nepal.com

   

3) Ayo-Gorkhali Links Page

http://www.travel-nepal.com/ayo-gorkhali

    

4) Lonely Planet - Destination Nepal

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/indian_subcontinent/nepal/

   



Bhutan Links

As Bhutan is also a country steeped in a Tibetan style culture, I thought I'd include a couple of links for there as well.   Bear in mind it's expensive to go there, which is why I haven't.   You get hit by a daily tariff of US $65 for visitors on top of your everyday expenses and a small $7 departure tax at Paro Airport on leaving the country.

Paro Airport is the main point of entry, with Druk Air, the only Bhutanese airline, flying in from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, Nepal.   A further popular entry point with tourists is the land based border crossing at Phyentsholing, visitors normally arriving from Sikkim and Darjeeling of 'tea' fame.   The focal point within Bhutan and the capital city is Thimpu, which is quite a reasonable drive from Paro Airport.   Advised routes overland are from Kathmandu, via Sikkim and Darjeeling to Bhutan.

Best times to visit are during Spring and Autumn, with October and November particularly recommended for the best views of the surrounding mountains.   Being a Buddhist country and following Drukpa Kayyu Buddhism (very closely related to the Tibetan forms of Buddhism), this is again another place to see Tibetan culture not too greatly disturbed by foreign intervention and western culture.   The $65 daily tariff sees to that, it's purpose being to control the number of visitors - there's no limit as such to the number of foreigners, but the tariff has the required effect.   The other main activity for foreigners is trekking and the mountainous territory and Buddhist culture are certainly major attractions for the most determined (and well off) travellers.

The summer sees the Monsoon kick in with some very heavy rains, and the quality of the roads in Bhutan (the only way of getting around) can be dubious to say the least at this time.   Rain can fall here at any time of year, due to the relief effect of the mountains, but is less severe outside the Monsoon season.   Many locals travelling from eastern Bhutan actually cross Assam state in India and re-enter at Phyentsholing to make their journey easier, however, foreigners should bear in mind that Assam is subject to separatist activity and the Indian army presence is more than noticeable in this area - caution is therefore advised.

As with other Buddhist areas, big cultural festivals are held at the major monasteries at various times of year, so it may be worth timing your visit to coincide with one or more of these, keeping an eye on the $200 daily tariff clocking up while you're there - from what I've heard about them, you may want to stay longer.   That said, of all the Buddhist cultures in the area, I'd say the Bhutanese form is in the least threat, due to the aforementioned limited number of foreign visitors to the country.   Buildings have to conform to traditional construction techniques and no tacky blocks of flats are to be seen anywhere.   National dress is compulsory for Bhutanese citizens unless you're a monk.   Also, television used to be banned, again a measure designed to protect their unique culture - this was broken during the 1998 Football (Soccer) World Cup, big screens were apparently erected to allow locals to watch the games.   Since then television has arrived, but it is too early to say what effect it will have on this unique country.

Bhutan's historical relationship with Tibet is a curious one.   The Bhutanese are Red Hat Buddhists and do not recognise the Dalai Lama, who is leader of the Tibetan Yellow Hat sect and has never set foot on Bhutanese soil.   Also, the Bhutanese have twice fought off two attempted Tibetan invasions during the 18th and 19th centuries of which they are immensely proud.   The mountains contain several fortifications from this period of conflict with Tibet, guarding the passes through the Himalayas through which Tibetan incursions onto Bhutanese soil occurred.   So don't expect massive sympathy for the Tibetans from the Bhutanese over the presence of the Chinese in Tibet.

Amongst other quirks I've stumbled upon, is that although restaurants are to be found in the main towns and especially Thimpu, there's apparently a lack of locals using them.   It's regarded as lazy not to do your own cooking and chores and have someone else do them for you - I'd have thought even locals would have appreciated the odd meal cooked by someone else, but that's their culture and way of life.   It's not our place to argue!   Also don't be too astonished at the phalluses apparently painted on some house walls, linked to a past Buddhist cult that existed there.

Anyway, a few links:

1)  Lonely Planet - Destination Bhutan

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/indian_subcontinent/bhutan/index.htm

   

2) Kingdom of Bhutan Official Website

http://www.kingdomofbhutan.com/

   



Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj - Basic Information and Links

This area has become the base of the Tibetan Government in Exile (which still refers to itself as the Kashag government) and also the focal point for Tibetan refugees escaping Tibet and the Chinese.   As a result, there are a high number of refugee camps with a range of activities, including the presence of Buddhist monasteries, nunneries, temples and meditation centres, plus the largest library in existence of Tibetan history.   The availability of a Tibetan based education due to the presence of the refugee community, has resulted in high levels of child refugees being sent across the Himalayas by their parents, to learn about Tibetan language, history and arts, free of Chinese influence.

Dharamsala is normally missed out by many visitors, being basically a business and shopping centre, the only thing of interest being the Museum of Kangra Art.   The main centre of activity is McLeod Ganj, 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) higher and 10 kilometres (6 miles) further along a very bendy road.   Evdience of this once being a British summer retreat and hill station has now been completely swamped by the still continuing influx of Tibetan refugees, who now vastly outnumber the Indians living here.   As well as the Tibetan Government in Exile and the Dalai Lama's Official Residence, there is the aforementioned Tibetan library (called the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives - Tibetan language and philosophy courses are held here on weekdays), the Tushita and Vipassana Retreat Meditation Centres (at Dharamkhot), the Tibetan Children's Village (next to Dal Lake, north east of McLeod Ganj), the Astro Medical Institute run by monks (they'll do you a horoscope for you too if you want), the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts and for examples of thangka painting, wood carving, statues, metal craft and other Tibetan crafts, the Norbulingka Institute.   There are also the various monasteries and nunneries, some of which can be visited, with the main Buddhist Temple, the Tsug Lakhang, being a major focal point.

Access to tourists and outside is fairly open within reason - the Tibetans here want outsiders to know about their plight - and a lucky few visitors can even get a blessing from the Dalai Lama.   The following link should act as a good starting point on obtaining information about the area.

   

Dharamsala / McLeod Ganj

http://travel.indiamart.com/himachal-pradesh/mcleodganj/index.html

   



Tibetan Culture - Other Areas

Sikkim is another area not mentioned too much, with a substantial Tibetan Buddhist population.   The capital of the once independent state of Sikkim is Gantok, where most services such as tour or trekking companies, are centred.   Sikkim is stuck between Nepal to the west and Bhutan to the east - look for Darjeeling of tea fame and you should find it on the map.   The quickest way there for foreigners is by flight from Dehli.

Sikkim became part of India in 1975, since which time the Buddhist former inhabitants (Lepchas - the former rulers, Bhutias and Limbus) have been overwhelmed by an influx of Hindu Nepalese Gurungs, the latter making up 75% of the population there.   Despite this, the remoter areas are still, to my knowledge, largely unspoilt.   Monsoon time seems to be a very bad time to go, as the rains are particularly heavy here and this makes getting around (roads being washed away, etc.) a little difficult.   Apart from that, it's not really in my plans, so I'll leave it at that and let the keener people do the research.   Oh, before you can go there, you'll need a restricted areas permit - check with tourist companies and organisations.

There's also a few areas well off the beaten track in the far eastern Himalayas near the Indian-Tibetan border in Arunachal Pradesh, especially in the western area close to the border with Bhutan.   There's a key Buddhist monastery at Tawang and apparently, the Dalai Lama has stayed over in the area in the past.   Once again, a restricted areas permit is needed.      The quickest way there for foreigners is by flight from Dehli, but it might be worth investigating options from Calcutta, given the area's easterly location.

For both Sikkim and Arunchal Pradesh, there aren't too many websites of decent quality and travel books such as the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet do a far better job.

Skardu, the main town of Baltistan in the Northern Areas of Pakistan is an area also sometimes referred to as "Little Tibet", due to the presence of numbers of people of Tibetan descent living around it - that said, an influx of people from elsewhere in Pakistan might make it seem otherwise.   The people who originally lived here followed the same religious path as other Tibetan related people, starting by practicing the Bön religion before converting to Buddhism.    However, unlike other people of Tibetan descent the people here then all converted to Islam in the 16th Century, via a process of the rulers being converted first followed by their population (just like Kargil and the lower Suru Valley in Ladakh - except in Skardu and Baltistan, it was done a little earlier).   

There are some Buddhist remains in the surrounding areas - although neglected for centuries, these remains have been better preserved in recent years thanks to some people of Tibetan descent trying to rediscover their cultural roots, although at the same time remaining devoutly Islamic.   Contact between these people and their still Buddhist kinsfolk in Ladakh is hampered however, due to the current situation in Kashmir.   This is despite the relatively short distance between them, the problem being the Line of Control between Indian and Pakistani Kashmir, itself only a short drive from Skardu across which it is not possible to travel.

The best line of approach for the tourist is to follow the Karakorum Highway, an amazing joint achievement by Pakistani and Chinese Engineers through some very spectacular mountain scenery.   This road starts at Islamabad (a side trip can be taken to the Taxalia Buddhist remains in the Swat Valley, the birthplace of the tantric Buddhism practiced in Tibet - abandoned in the 16th century with the spread of Islam), then heads up towards the Khunjerab Pass via Gilgit and Hunza, past the famous Baltit and Altit forts, continuing onwards to Kashgar (Kashi) in the Xinjiang province of China.   People heading for Skardu should turn right to follow the Indus Valley eastwards before reaching Gilgit.   Alternatively, there is one daily flight to and from Islamabad.

Skardu itself (easily recognised by the fort on a rocky promontory above the town) is the centre of the Pakistani mountain trekking industry (well, if you've got beautiful mountains, you make the most of them - hopefully keeping a careful eye on conservation) - and it's not that far away from K2 or Mount Godwin-Austin (whatever you want to call it), the second highest mountain in the world.

I'm not going to advise a specific website for this area, though a quick search for photos of Baltistan and Skardu on one of the main search engines (Yahoo, etc.) will give you an idea why some people regard the area as particularly special - did I mention the spectacular mountain scenery?   There are quite a lot of links and quite frankly, I don't know where to start.

One final point - as Islam is very strong in this area, people visiting should show respect for local customs.   Arms and legs should be kept covered at all times in public - some tourists even adopt local dress to more readily gain acceptance.   Most locals are friendly provided outsiders act conservatively.

   



Tibetan Buddhism in Britain

Kagyu Samye Ling is the largest Buddhist centre in Britain (Scotland for SNP supporters) and indeed, Europe - typically British that they chose Eskdalemuir (actually 1.5 miles north of it), the rainiest place in the British Isles to site it.   This complex offers a range of activities for Buddhists and non-Buddhists, ranging from simple day visits (needless to say there's a café and gift shop) to short courses and meditation and secluded activities lasting for up to three years.   The centre is off the main tourist trail, however, I do get the impression from their website that although they don't mind people dropping by, they do want peace and quiet where they can meditate.

Jokes aside, the Kagyu Samye Ling centre aims to bring people of different faiths together and promote mutual understanding and world peace - it's main aim is not to make everybody Buddhist.   Take a look at it's website and if your near Carlisle, Lockerbie or visiting the Blacksmith's Anvil at Gretna, by all means drop by - but don't make a nuisance of yourself (when you're expected to give them their privacy is fairly clear on their website on their list of courses they offer - see the visiting section for more information).   I have not myself managed to take a look - possibly when I get time I suppose.

One final comment is that if this sounds a little tree-hugging and hippyish, look at it this way.   Everyone is entitled to their beliefs and we should respect their beliefs, as the people here (some Tibetan and some European) respect ours.

http://www.samyeling.org

  



Travel Companies that go the Himalayas

Active and Adventurous

Following are a list of UK based travel companies that take small groups to Himalayan Destinations.   Single room supplements are generally not offered - the philosophy is very much on saving money for the traveller and single rooms are, at the end of the day, an extra and sometimes hefty expense.   Be prepared to rough it in some cases, with camping rather that hotel accommodation sometimes used as a necessity in remote areas.   If you like hiking and trekking, these companies are for you.   

All five companies listed here offer Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.   It's worth mentioning that the first four companies also offer Ladakh in the north of India in varying options, normally including Dharamsala (McLeod Ganj), the current home of the Tibetan Government in Exile.

Ladakh is cheaper than Tibet itself (see 'Ladakh and Other Areas' for more information on the area) and definitely cheaper than Bhutan, where tourists have to pay an extra levy whilst in the country, this dependant on the time they're there.

   

1) Exodus Travels

http://www.exodus.co.uk/

All rounders, offering a wide range of options in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and Ladakh.   They also offer a large selection of options to other areas of the world and cover a wide range of holiday types, including touring, trekking and overland journeys.   I've used them twice and they were extremely helpful on the problem of altitude sickness (see my 'Tibet - Frequently Asked Questions' pagee for more information).   Will quote including and excluding airfares.

   

2) Travelbag Adventures (also known as The Adventure Company)

http://www.travelbag-adventures.co.uk

   

3) Explore Worldwide

http://www.exploreworldwide.com

Both Travelbag and Explore offer a reasonable number of options for Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and Ladakh from a worldwide itinerary, very much in the same mould as Exodus.      Will quote including and excluding airfares.

   

4) The Imaginative Traveller

http://www.imaginative-traveller.com

Quotations for trips only include the actual trip and not the airfare to get there, though they can offer special deals on flights.   By far the most comprehensive list of options I've seen, with touring, trekking and overland journeys again catered for.   This wide range of options applies as much to their Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and Ladakh trips as elsewhere in the world.   Away from these areas, they are mainly Asia specialists, though act as agents for other companies for other parts of the world.

   

5) Golden Hill Travel

http://www.goldenhilltravel.co.uk

Based in Cumbria, specialists in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and for South American lovers, Peru.   Also offer a couple of India options, but are the only company of the five listed here not covering Ladakh.   They are mainly a trekking company, but with a few tour only options.   Quote does not include airfares to get to the destination and this will need to be added on.

   



Travel Companies that go the Himalayas

Doing it free of stress

The following companies are 'tour only' companies, tending to attract an older clientele who want to see the world, like their creature comforts and don't want any of the hassles associated with travel (i.e. like the hard work done for them).   Don't expect anything too strenuous - if you want active and adventurous, look elsewhere.   Put it this way, people on these trips will only look at a mountain, rather than trek up it.   On the other hand though, if you're not that fit, then these companies are for you.   

Single room supplements are a standard option, with Nepal itineraries given the most coverage.   Tibet itineraries are fairly restricted, with Bhutan only offered by the second and third of the following companies.   If you want to go to Ladakh, look at my 'Active and Adventurous' selection, these companies don't cover it.

   

1) Travelsphere

http://www.travelsphere.co.uk

Operate a fairly limited number of tours worldwide, with prices comparable with the more rough and ready companies already listed.

Offer two trips with Nepal included, one from Delhi to Kathmandu and the other entirely Nepal based (Kathmandu, Pokhara, optional flight past Everest, which can be obtained from travel agents in Kathmandu anyway).   Tibet is offered on a limited basis, as an added extension to their Nepal only trip and also their China trips.   Bhutan and Ladakh are not offered.

   

2) Steppes East

http://www.steppeseast.co.uk

Offer tailor made packages for individuals at a price which can be anything from being a bit higher than the other companies listed, to nearly twice the price (Tibet enters this category).   You're not part of a group and the itinerary followed is what you've negotiated with Steppes East.   That said, as the first five companies listed cover all the main areas anyway, the value of this may be somewhat limited.   If the number of people booking together is large, then Steppes East might just discount the price per person.   Escorted group tours that are offered do not include Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan or Ladakh.

   

3) Voyages Jules Verne

http://www.vjv.co.uk

Swiss company operating worldwide with a sizeable UK presence.   Operate tours very much in the Travelsphere mould, but normally with a slightly larger number of options, especially in Nepal.   Prices are again comparable with the more rough and ready companies.   As regards Bhutan and Tibet, this is offered in a combined trip including Nepal also.   Ladakh is not offered.

   



Further Reading

For those wanting to improve their background knowledge from the comfort of their own armchairs, the books listed following give an incite into Tibet, in the first case prior to Chinese rule and in the second and third cases, Tibet in the post Cultural Revolution period, when the Chinese themselves admitted that Tibet had been misgoverned.

The remaining books are guide books, the first used by myself when in Tibet, which I found told me all I needed to know and acted as a source for much of the information on this website.

   

1) Seven Years in Tibet, Heinrich Harrer

Story of the escape of Austrian climbers Heinrich Harrer and Peter Aufschnaiter from a British detention camp in India to Tibet, both arrested after an attempt on the mountain 'Nanga Parbat' when the Second World War broke out.   This book details their life and experiences during their time there and makes much of the growing friendship between Heinrich Harrer and the young fourteenth Dalai Lama.   A good insight into Tibet just prior to the 1950 Chinese invasion.

   

2) Return to Tibet, Heinrich Harrer

Heinrich Harrer returned to Tibet in 1982 and this book is very much a discussion of the changes since his departure at the time of the Chinese invasion in 1950.   This book is definitely more of a dissertation than a story and is much harder work than it's predecessor.   That said, the contrasts between his first time in Tibet and this visit are stark, the most noticeable differences resulting from the damage done during the Cultural Revolution.   For the more patient, these contrasts make it worth the read alone.   What comes through most strongly, is his sense of sadness at what has been lost.

   

3) From Heaven Lake, Vikram Seth

Travelogue of the author's journey from Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan), through Tibet to his home in India in 1981, whilst a student at Nanjing University.   This was at a time when Tibet was more closed to foreigners than open - tour groups were just beginning to be allowed in.   The effects of Chinese rule on Tibet are once again addressed, though the author only had to scratch beneath the surface to find many facets of Tibetan life continuing, despite the influence of the Chinese.   Examples included in his book are a reasonably detailed account of a Tibetan sky burial, the Tibetan's traditional method of disposing of the dead, and more openly, the continued prayers and prostrations of the devout around the Jokhang Temple.

   

4) Odyssey Illustrated Guide to Tibet, Elisabeth Booz

Whilst not the best guide book for the hardened independent traveller who wants their book to tell them everything they need in minute detail, this guide does provide good quality background information on Tibet's history and culture for the more casual traveller.   I opted for this book instead of, say, the Lonely Planet Guide to Tibet for these reasons; I didn't want to have information thrust in my face that was not necessary for my journey there.   For this reason, I also opted for the Nepal version of this book.

The book does very much concentrate on southern Tibet (Lhasa, Shigatse, Gyantse, Tsedang, Yarlong and the Friendship Highway to Nepal, including Rongbuk Monastery near Everest's north side base camp) for which it is more than adequate, though there is a brief section on the Mount Kailash area in western Tibet.   For other areas off the beaten track, then the likes of Lonely Planet may be more what you're looking for.

   

5) Lonely Planet Guide to Tibet

Extremely informative giving not just background, historical and cultural information, but just about everything that the independent traveller needs to know, right down to just about (it seems) every restaurant, hotel and guest house in Tibet.   In this lies two of the big weaknesses of the Lonely Planet guides, firstly, you can feel at times overwhelmed with information and secondly, the high level of detail is more vulnerable to changes that can occur with time.   For example, whilst it can be nearly guaranteed that the major hotels in the main towns will always be there, the smaller restaurants and guest houses so beloved of the independent traveller are more prone to closure or changes of name and ownership.

Still good at what it does, though.   That said, if you are on a prearranged itinerary and you don't want to go through page after page of stuff for what you want to know, you might want to look at other alternatives.

As for the Lonely Planet Guide to Nepal, expect the same, with lots of information on just about everything.   Summaries for Nepal and Tibet, as well as Bhutan are contained on the Lonely Planet website.

   

6) Rough Guide to China

Contains a reasonable section on Tibet (which is all on the Rough Guide website), which as with the Odyssey Guide concentrates on the main areas of Southern Tibet and around Mount Kailash.   To my knowledge, there is no dedicated Rough Guide to Tibet.   This is a shame, as my personal preferences are in favour of the Rough Guide books.   In this case, it is probably better to opt for one of the two dedicated guides from Lonely Planet or Odyssey.

The Rough Guide to Nepal is a different matter and seems in my opinion to have a better balance between the need for information to be accessible and for it not to be swamped in the middle of vast quantities of other stuff, that many travellers may not need.   Go for this if you're there for a few weeks, but if you're going independent in a big way, then consider Lonely Planet instead.   Again, all the text for Rough Guide to Nepal is online at the Rough Guide website, so have a look and decide for yourself.



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