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Nepal.
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July/August 1998 - Kathmandu, Patan, Baudhanath, Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Bhaktapur, flight over Everest on way to Tibet. It is strongly advised that if you trekking or going to altitude, you read the section on 'Altitude Sickness'. See also 'Nepal Pictures' and the 'Everest Webcam'.
Strange Happenings: Monkeys eating flower petals (see following). Man hangs bricks from penis at Pashupatinath.
Eating in a partially open air restaurant and notice an electrical socket with an adaptor with three plugs in. This is attached to another adaptor with a further two plugs. This is attached to another adaptor with a further two plugs. This is attached to another adaptor with a further two plugs. This is attached to another adaptor with a further two plugs. The next adaptor has a further chain of adaptors with plugs attached to the side. A few adaptors and a good few plugs later, the electric socket itself is reached. We reckon that most of the restaurant is powered through this single socket. There's a thunderstorm overhead and we are glad the canopy above us doesn't have a leak. (For an alternative approach, see 'Egypt'.)
To emphasize the point, as we are leaving the restaurant in the heavy rain, the electrics of a building opposite short out in the weather. The poor bloke pedalling the rickshaw we're in just looks skyward.
We decide to buy a bottle of 'Nepalese' whisky, distilled in Scotland. Hmm.
Also find shop in Bhaktapur selling Middlesbrough F.C. merchandise (see 'Photos').
Travel Advice and Information: A good and relatively safe all round destination (see following on the Maoists), which I have a lot of time for. Please respect Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and if in doubt about entering a building or taking a photo, ask first.
Nepal is where tribes such as the world famous Gurkhas and the Sherpas come from. The Gurkas are Hindu tribe of Mongol origin and a source of troops for the British Army, in an arrangement stretching back to the 19th Century. The Sherpas are Buddhist tribe living in the Everest region and of Tibetan origin. It is the Sherpas who benefit most from the trekking industry which has transformed their lives, bringing schools, medical care, electricity, telephones and even Internet to their home area in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
The Maoists: The Maoist rebellion has been underway since 1996, with the main area of fighting being in agricultural central and western Nepal, where poverty in this very poor nation is at it's worst. These areas see none of the tourist income that pours into Kathmandu, Pokhara and the main trekking areas such as the Sherpa dominated Everest region and the Annapurna area.
Led by a shadowy figure known as 'Comrade Prachenda', the aim of the movement is to replace the Constitutional Monarchy of Nepal with a one party socialist republic. Those who follow Comrade Prachenda see war as the only solution to their never ending cycle of poverty and a way of giving Nepal a government that will alleviate their situation. My own view is that socialism is a matter of personal ideology and you either believe in it or you don't. However, a 'one party' state is hardly democratic and for those that are worst off, are they really going to have a greater say than they do at the moment? But enough on the subject of politics - there's already enough of that with the Tibet issue on this site and I don't want to drive people away completely.
Whilst there have been many casualties in the on-off conflict with the Kathmandu government, so far tourists have not been specifically targeted by the Maoists. There have been some instances of attempted extortion, to enable Maoist troops to buy supplies and more arms to continue the war - there appears to be no real outside support for the Maoists, with Indian and even Chinese Governments siding with the Nepali Government. The one chance of success is the lack of decisiveness of the Nepali Government, who seem unable to decide whether to take firm action against the Maoists, stick their heads in the sand and pretend it will go away or (probably the best option) actually sit down and talk properly with the rebels to alleviate the poverty in areas where it is at it's worst. The Maoists themselves aren't helping matters, as they have made some areas (i.e. the west) of Nepal effectively out of bounds to aid agencies and also to tourists, who in certain localities are a major source of revenue.
Practically, tourists are unlikely to come face to face with the Maoists, though evidence is there in the form of early closing of shops and restaurants in Kathmandu, the occasional bombing of infrastructure which has led to the loss of telephone communications in rural areas (even in Sherpa territory near Everest, where the Maoists have few friends) and some unofficial prohibition of the sale of alcohol (some Nepali women's groups as well as the Maoists would like to see full-scale prohibition introduced).
The best advice is check with the equivalent of your Foreign Office or Ministry of Foreign Affairs. That said, no problems should be encountered in the main tourists areas.
Weather: This is dependant on location and altitude, as follows.
The Terai are the plains at the foot of the Himalayas and tend to be warm and dry during the winter (temperatures in the low twenties) and very hot in the summer (upper thirties, with over forty degrees possible). The Monsoon is from between late June or early July till late September. It's best to visit here during the winter - the likes of Chitwan National Park (wonder how many will get the pronunciation of Chitwan wrong - 'ch' not 'sh') lie on the edge of the Terai.
Mid-altitude areas like Kathmandu, Pokhara and the lower altitude trekking routes tend to be cooler and wetter (the Monsoon is that bit longer and more severe), with summer temperatures from the mid-twenties to the low thirties. Winter temperatures can dip below 10°C, with frosts a possibility. The best time to visit here is October and November - spring before the Monsoon (May onwards) is another possibility.
The Himalayas proper (the higher altitude areas) see very heavy rain, mostly in summer. However, rain can occur at any time of year due to water vapour being forced to condense into clouds at higher altitudes. Below freezing temperatures and extremely heavy snow are possible in the winter, which despite the warm summers may take till mid-summer to completely clear from shaded gullies. Best times to visit are spring and autumn.
A brief mention is to be made for Mustang here, which is just in the rain shadow of the Himalayas. Some monsoon rain does get here; however, it's climate is more Tibetan and thus much drier (high altitude desert). It's high altitude makes the summer period the only time to visit (it's bitingly cold in winter); however, the Monsoon on the southern slopes of the Himalayas may make the going a little uncomfortable to trek in (there are no roads into Mustang).
Altitude Sickness: Altitude sickness cannot be ignored when making a trip to higher altitude areas of Nepal. This means any height above 8,000 feet or 2,500 metres. This covers most if not all the main trekking areas in the Himalayas, including the popular Annapurna Circuit and the Everest Base Camp trek. I have placed a sizeable section on altitude sickness on my 'Tibet Frequently Asked Questions' page.
If you're not going beyond Kathmandu or Pokhara in height, you don't have to worry about altitude.
Places Visited:
Thamel: The Thamel district in Kathmandu is highly recommended for a good night out, without breaking the bank, despite the electricals in some restaurants (see 'Strange Happenings') and also a good place to shop. Apparently, accommodation in this area also very cheap (a couple of dollars a night), though highly variable in standard - good if you're a back packer on a tight budget. There are also plenty of reasonably priced hotels of Western standard scattered around Kathmandu.
I visited Thamel three times, twice to eat, once to shop. There's a very good book shop there, which I can't remember the name of, if you want to get guide books, maps or any kind of reading literature. There are shops galore and you can get anything from Nepalese goods to Tibetan and even Bhutanese. These goods vary from trinkets through souvenirs to carpets and even the Karma Sutra. Items are cheaper here than in the Hotels, helped by the fact you can haggle (40 - 50% is reasonable, but I wouldn't be surprised if lower prices are possible). Mind you, some of the items are fake (careful now), but if you like it, buy it.
Swayambhunath: The first place I visited, I thoroughly enjoyed Swayambhunath, which I understand is nicknamed the Monkey Temple. Probably something to do with all the monkeys that were wandering around there. There's a long climb up the steps at this Newar Buddhist temple, to get to the stupa on top of the hill. This can be got round by going to the back entrance, where the climb is less severe. Still tiring though, but well worth it. You get a great view of the Kathmandu valley from here.
I decided to play football with one of the local children up here, forgetting he was running around barefoot. Let's just say his toes were a little sore when I clumsily stood on them.
Durbar Square: On the same day I went to Swayambhunath, I visited Kathmandu's Durbar Square, atmospheric and memorable for the Sadhus, the cows wandering around the square and the large number of pigeons using the area as a roost and picking up scraps off the many tourists. Living just off Durbar Square is the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as the embodiment of the Hindu goddess Durga. We were allowed into the compound of the house where she lived and we were lucky enough to get a glimpse of her. Apparently, her mood is supposed to have a bearing of the person seeing her at that time. When we were there, I have to admit she looked bored.
Patan: After Kathmandu's Durbar Square, I found Patan and it's Durbar square (get used to it, there are quite a few Durbar Squares in Nepal) much the better, simply because there were fewer tourists than in Kathmandu's Durbar square and it made for a more relaxed atmosphere. A short distance away and a few minutes walk through the back streets from here brings you to a pleasant little Buddhist Monastery. We found the monks here to very friendly and I felt quite relaxed here and could have quite happily spent a little longer here than I did. It gave me a little taste of Tibet, where I went two days later, when I flew over the Himalayas to get there.
Bhaktapur: The day before I travelled to Tibet, I visited Bhaktapur. This town outside Kathmandu was the definite highlight of my time in Nepal. It is difficult to put into words how I felt here, but it is suffice to say that not even the heavy rain that day managed to spoil it for me. Yet another Durbar Square, but again pleasant and much more open than the Durbar Squares in Kathmandu and Patan. I'll not go too much into detail here, but every turn brings you to another discovery, another temple or another souvenir shop, a bit different from the others (including one selling Middlesbrough F.C. merchandise).
There are a number of temples around the Tanchapal Tol area, about three quarters of a mile walk from Bhaktapur's Durbar Square. We were lucky enough to visit at the time of a major festival, with women hoping for children visiting Dattatreya Temple crowding the square for a blessing.
My favourite spot was Taumadhi Tol. Here, I had lunch at a small café, inside what I presumed to be an old temple building. This overlooked a further Hindu temple known as the Nyatapola temple and people wandering around below going about their everyday lives. Nothing spectacular, just pleasant.
The Nyatapola temple is recognisable due to the stone guardians lining the steps (in order of two wrestling brothers with the strength of ten men at the bottom, followed by elephants, lions, griffons and some minor deities, all tens times stronger than the ones below them) and inside the temple itself is a statue of the Hindu goddess Durga, a temple which only the Nepalese King may enter.
The café was a welcome respite with the rain still falling. Tea and coke was a available and it had a very nice sideline in salads too.
Changu Narayan: I went from Bhaktapur to an isolated temple complex called Changu Narayan. Again, as so many times in and around the Kathmandu valley, a pleasant surprise. Mind you, it was a case of dodge the animal muck on the walk up to the temple, after about twenty minutes drive from Bhaktapur, as the area around the temple was a farming area (sheep, hens, cows, the lot - and it's clear they'd ate a lot). But this was something well off the tourist beaten track, which made it all the more special and the temple itself was well worth all the animal muck on the way to it. While I was there, one elderly gentleman indicated he wanted money, for which I interpreted he would open a grating partially obscuring one of the shrines. Me big dope - duh! (my fault), because all he did was pose.
Tibet: The flight to Tibet had to be something special to match up to what I had experienced in Nepal up to that point. And it was, as the view of the peak of Mount Everest emerging through the cloud during the flight was nothing short of breathtaking. As for Tibet, well you'll just have to read the Tibet page to find out.
Kodari to Kathmandu: Kodari is on the border between Nepal and Tibet and after a night in a rather strange hotel on the Tibetan side of the border (see 'Strange Happenings' on the Tibet page), it was a relief to be back in Nepal. The journey by minibus through the beautiful Nepalese countryside would have been a thoroughly enjoyable one, but for the fact at this stage we were tired out. We drove through Dhulikhel and passed Bhaktapur on the way back along paved road - quite a surprise for a country with as little money as Nepal. Also a relief after the poor road conditions in Tibet.
Before climbing to Dhulikhel, the road passed along a river valley from Kodari and we were treated to little waterfalls pouring down the sides of the Himalayan foothills. We couldn't see any mountain tops, as it was cloudy after a night of heavy rain, but as we reached the top of the climb travelling towards Dhulikhel, looking back gave us a wonderful view of the mountains and valleys behind us. At the top of this climb on a road which at this stage which was constant hairpin bends - yep, yet another temple, this time a Buddhist stupa.
Pashupatinath: The Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath was every bit as good as Swayambhunath. The first thing you come across is a small hospital complex (if coming off the main road between the airport and Kathmandu), started off by Mother Teresa's order of nuns, occupying one side of one of the temples. Most tourists then cross the river, as non-Hindus are not allowed in the main part of the complex. Things to look for on the west bank are the doorways up river, where Hindu Holy men (called 'Sadhus') live in isolation and the funeral platforms on the river bank itself (not a good idea to photograph if there is a funeral going on).
The east bank is a good place to get photos of the whole temple complex, if you climb up the hill. You can also buy some souvenirs here from hawkers along the side of the path and if you are lucky, you can find snake charmers and other novelties - when I was there, as I mentioned in 'Strange Happenings', there was the man hanging bricks from his penis. It must have hurt, but he was getting a fair bit in cash from the tourists. If he's a creature of habit (did I just say that) and he's still doing it now (groan), then you'll find him at the end of a row of eleven white shrines up river from the bridge crossing the river.
Baudhanath: The Buddhist stupa and accompanying temple at Baudhanath would have been quite a site, but all around it was a ring of souvenir shops, which helped to spoil the atmosphere of the place. The stupa is huge and very striking, but after visiting Swayambhunath, I found it a bit of an anticlimax. I have to admit, that I'd just got back from Tibet the previous day and after visiting Pashupatinath the same day, I was to say the least, a bit tired.
Apparently, Baudhanath is a site of pilgrimage for Buddhists all over the Himalayas and is a focus for Tibetans living in Nepal and elsewhere outside Tibet. It is considered to be an extraordinarily powerful site, able to fulfill all wishes. I'll let you know if mine comes true.
Other Places: Pokhara and wildlife viewing in Chitwan National Park are recommended. Nepal is also legendary for trekking in the Himalayas (for example, the Annapurna range or the trek to Everest base camp are popular), for which there is plenty on offer, both for the inexperienced and expert. Beginners should only attempt trekking as part of a group and only on some of the easier routes (request advice from experienced trekking companies).
Mustang and Other Tibetan Cultural Areas: One theme running throughout this website is all things Tibetan. The high Himalayan areas are predominantly so, as any visitor to Nepal will realise when the place names shift from the multi-syllable Hindi based Nepalese names to the generally simpler to pronounce Tibetan type names. Anywhere that is Sherpa dominated, has people of primarily Tibetan descent.
Typical of the Tibetan areas is the Kingdom of Mustang (pronounced Moo-stang, a western corruption of Mastang), which basically can be regarded as a bit of Tibet in Nepal. Geographically, it's part of the Tibetan plateau and in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, meaning it's spared the worst of the Monsoon and like Tibet, is high altitude desert. Not to be mistaken for a type of American wild horse or motor vehicle of the same name, the Kingdom of Mustang is autonomous from, but under the suzerainty (overlordship) of Nepal, who took over the suzerainty of Jumla in 1795. Strictly speaking, Mustang is a vassal of both Nepal and Tibet, but the status of the latter is effectively redundant as a result of the Chinese occupation of Tibet.
The kingdom has a total population of 8,000 and is situated north of Jomosom (at the junction with the Annapurna trekking circuit), where most trekkers and travellers fly into from Pokhora, followed by a walk up the Kali Gandaki gorge. The people of the southern part of Mustang call themselves Gurung and follow the Sakya tradition of Buddhism, after a lama of that tradition started a Buddhist revival in the area in the 15th century. The term Loba (from Lo Gyelpo or Kingdom of Lo, the Tibetan name for Mustang) is a more general local term, with Buddhism also dominant further north and some Bön also present. The main crops are wheat, barley and buckwheat, though some herding (no doubt Yaks, what else is there to Yak about?) is also carried out - not too dissimilar from Tibet. Polyandry (the practice of having a single wife and more than one husband - the female version of polygamy) has a long history in the royal family and the population in general.
In total, there are three cities (more like small towns at best) including Lo Manthang (the capital) and Tsarang. The four story Tibetan style mud brick building overshadowing Lo Manthang is the royal palace and some people have managed audiences with the ruling raja or king there - given the right connections, of course. A white prayer scarf (khatak), the traditional Tibetan greeting, is needed for such a meeting. By all accounts, the current king is more a practical, moderniser type of bloke rather than your average regal king. His pad consists of the three main cities and the government is assured by the 7 noble families of Mustang, the only families having the right to marry into the royal family. In addition to this, there are a further 24 villages and 8 Buddhist monasteries within the kingdom.
Mustang's history dates back to the 15th century, when a local Tibetan king united the local fiefdoms into the Kingdom of Lo. Somehow, it became primarily absorbed into Nepal rather than Tibet, though it remained isolated due to it's inaccessibility. The next mention of it came after the Tibetan uprising against Chinese rule, when during the 1960's it became a refuge for Tibetan guerillas attacking the Chinese in Tibet. This was ended by the Nepalese Army in the 1970's who cleared out the guerillas, after which it returned to being a virtually unvisited backwater until the 1990's.
The area was opened to tourists in April 1992, after pressure from locals who wanted to share in the increased prosperity being enjoyed by the neighbouring Kali Gandakhi region. There's a hefty admission fee for trekking groups ($700 per group was the 1998 price) and travelling as part of a group is obligatory, to minimise environmental impact from outsiders. As such groups are of around 15 to 20 people, thus the individual cost is minimal, each group supervised by a government liaison officer. Sixty percent of this fee is meant to benefit the local community, though to what degree this actually happens is unclear - there are local difficulties over the distribution of any income. The limit of 1000 tourists a year, an attempt to limit visitor numbers in a similar way to Bhutan, is exercised flexibly and to say the area is under strain from what by western terms is a small number of tourists may or may not be a little bit of an understatement.
That said, even this apparently not so great control may limit numbers to the extent that it is not completely overrun by tourists. As such, this may be a better bet to see (as near as possible) unspoilt Tibetan culture than the main trekking routes (see following) or Ladakh in the far north of India, completely swamped by tourists in the summer months (and why in 2002, I tried to arrange to go to Ladakh in winter, when the tourists were out of the way). I have to admit that the idea of going up to Mustang is appealing to me (I've not been), but trekking at high altitude (as high as 3950m) may mean a less strenuous trek is called for before tackling this particular route. A fit person might be able to manage it first time out, but a not so fit person should think twice. What makes you think I'm mulling it over?
Other areas include many of the popular trekking locations in Nepal, including the main Annapurna trekking routes (accessible from Pokhara), the Langtang area and the famous Everest base camp route in Khumbu region, the home area of the famous Sherpas (you need to fly from Kathmandu to the mountainside airstrip at Lukla). The fact that many of the pass names have 'la' in their name is a big giveaway, this meaning, well how can I put it, 'pass'. On the Everest base camp route, you have place names such as Namche Bazaar (where you can get Internet) and the famous Monastery of Thyangboche (alternatively called 'Tengboche' - website at http://www.tengboche.com), '-che' being a typical ending to many Tibetan place names. A 'Rimpoche / Rinpoche', if you come across this term, is a reincarnated Lama.
Travel Companies: Many companies go there, mainly for trekking, with some using Kathmandu as a transit point for flying into Tibet. Have a look at my 'Links Page'.
Currency: Nepalese Rupee, though Dollar may be acceptable.
Beer, Beverages and Food: I've already mentioned the Nepalese whisky distilled in Scotland, which I suppose leaves the beer. The brands I noticed most widely available seemed to be the normal western lager beers you see outside of Europe, including Heiniken, San Miguel and Carlsberg. I assumed these to be imported, but it seems that the Nepalese brew at least some of the beer themselves under license. I started going for and sticking to Kingfisher (another import) by the end of my time there, basically because it was far better than anything else.
There are five local brews in Kathmandu apparently, including the traditional 'Jand' ('Chang' in Tibetan), made from rice, millet or barley. There's also 'Tongba', which is a fermented mash mixed with hot water in a wooden container and sipped with a bamboo straw.
Please remember, however, that alcohol consumption is not the best idea if travelling to altitude, due to the aforementioned 'Altitude Sickness'. Due to the Maoist rebellion, there are some areas where you'll just have to cope without beer.
As regards food, get used to boiled rice (Bhat) and various Indian dishes in Kathmandu, quite a few of these dishes being spicy. The national dish is 'Dal Bhat', made from boiled rice with lentils, curried vegetables and a little spicy pickled vegetable. In the more remote Tibetan areas, it's the Tibetan staple food 'Tsampa' you'll encounter, made from barley and sometimes mixed with tea without any further cooking.
Language: Mainly Nepali (with a modified Indian sanskrit script) Tibetan dialects are spoken up along the Tibetan border and in areas intersected by the higher altitude trekking routes. English is understood by some in urban areas such as Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Religion: A wide mixture make Kathmandu especially a fascinating place to visit. Hinduism is the main religion, with many temples evident. Buddhism is also visible in Kathmandu in two forms, Newari Buddhism (a modified form practiced in the Kathmandu valley) and some Lamaism (a form of Mahayana Buddhism). Sunni Islam is also present in Kathmandu and traces of Bön may exist among the Tibetan communities. See 'Background' for more...
Photos - Click on Place Name.
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| Pashupatinath Temple
Foreigners aren't allowed inside the Hindu temple complex itself, however, you can wander around the outside and as you can see from the following photos, there are many unusual things to be found, such as snake charmers with cobras and one bloke hanging bricks from his penis (yes, you did hear me right)... ...the expression on his face on the right says it all and if you were doing that to yourself, your face would be twisting too. There are some places people would pay good money for that. Judging by the collection he'd amassed, people were paying good money to watch!!! His agent to the rear is looking forward to a good day's takings. There is also a Hospital here, run by Christian nuns belonging to the same order that Mother Teresa of Calcutta came from. [Return to 'Kathmandu' map, but look at next photo first.] [Return to top.] |
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Patan This temple complex is similar to Durbar Square, however, this is less crowded. A short walk through the back streets from here will bring you to a pleasant little Buddhist Monastery. |
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| Images of Durbar Square
A good place to watch life, although a little crowded these days with tourists. Look out for the cows, protected under the Hindu religion and the Hindu Holy Men, called Sadhu. Also living just off Durbar Square is the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as the embodiment of the Hindu goddess Durga. |
Temples, plus shop selling Middlesbrough merchandise, Bhaktapur.
Some mysteries better left unsolved. Mind you, I can swear blind that's an ice cream stall in the bottom right of the picture. Funny thing is I don't remember any ice cream being on sale there. Did he sneak into the shot when I wasn't looking? Again, some mysteries are better left unsolved...
[Return to 'Kathmandu' map.] [Return to top.]
Tanchapal Tol and Taumadhi Tol, Bhaktapur.
The women in red are queuing around Tanchapal Tol as part of a local festival, to receive a blessing at the Dattatreya temple in the hope it will bring them children. On the right is Taumadhi Tol with Nyatapola temple, which only the king of Nepal can enter.
There is an old temple building to it's left where you can get a cup of tea or a coke - it's been converted into a café. Does a nice salad too.
[Return to 'Kathmandu' map.] [Return to top.]
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Swayambhunath (Buddhist Temple) with Petal Eating Monkeys, Kathmandu The one on the right has forgotten his underpants... The temple is the most important shrine for Newar Buddhists and perched on top of a hill, you can see a sizeable portion of Kathmandu from here. The activities of the monkeys here can keep you amused for hours. But beware, they can bite. |
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This is the other important Buddhist site in the Kathmandu Valley. This is a major site of pilgrimage for Buddhists across the Himalayas and is also a focal point for Tibetans living in Nepal.
[Return to 'Kathmandu' map.] [Return to top.]
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Can you see the climber, waving from the top?
Hmm, mebbies I need help.
Everest, finally conquered in 1953 by Edmund Hilliary and Sherpa Tenzing, has two local names. On the Nepalese side of the mountain, it is known as 'Sagarmatha' (this is Nepali for 'Forehead of the Sky') or 'Qomolungma' (this is Tibetan for 'Mother Goddess' - the 'Q' is pronounced 'Ch'). Everest was identified as the world's highest mountain in 1852, known simply as Peak XV - it wasn't until 1865 that the mountain was named 'Everest' after a Welshman of the same name. Everest the man was surveyor general in India between 1830 and 1843 - he wanted a local name to be used.
The introduction of the global position system (GPS) method of navigation briefly threw up a challenge to Everest's title as number one as one scientist briefly claimed Mount Godwin Austen (K2) (on the Delhi to Leh page) was higher than Everest, but some very careful measurements once again restored the crown of highest mountain to Everest. However, another mystery now surrounds Everest in that despite the continued growth of the Himalayas in general, it appears to have shrunk slightly. The reasons for this are unclear.
Everest is 29,035 feet or 8,850 metres high, by the way. The pretender to the throne, Mount Godwin Austen (K2), is a measly 8,611 m (28,250 ft).
[Return to 'Kathmandu' map.] [Return to top.] [If you came here from the 'Delhi to Leh' page to view this bit about Everest and wish to return, click here.]
Everest Webcam.
http://www.m.chiba-u.ac.jp/class/respir/eve_e.htm
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